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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) 1992ss 4 bolt main 496ci build (Read 22461 times)
Nasty_Z
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Re: 1992ss 4 bolt main 496ci build
Reply #75 - Mar 8th, 2019 at 3:49pm
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This : https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-210239/overview/ Will work for just the throttle cable .

This : https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-376705/overview/ has a provision that the cruise cable should fit in also , only problem I ever had with this style of bracket was it had nothing to keep it from rotating as it only uses one stud to hold it.

Probably going to have to get creative with this one , I fabricated one for my old '92 when I put the FITech on it , I'll text you a picture if I can find it , cut up and rewelded the original bracket to make it.

TOM

  
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90-454SS
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Re: 1992ss 4 bolt main 496ci build
Reply #76 - Mar 8th, 2019 at 4:11pm
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Here is the one we run with all Fi Tech units to hold throttle and detent cable for it.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-20000/overview/
  


90' CHEVY 454SS
99' CHEVY 2500 ext cab shortbed 4wd
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Derek B
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Re: 1992ss 4 bolt main 496ci build
Reply #77 - Mar 8th, 2019 at 4:45pm
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90-454SS wrote on Mar 8th, 2019 at 4:11pm:
Here is the one we run with all Fi Tech units to hold throttle and detent cable for it.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-20000/overview/


Which throttle lever stud hole are y’all using on the fitech?
  

Hot street 496 build 10.5:1 solid roller with AFR 265 Ovals Gen V block.
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mississippi454ss
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Re: 1992ss 4 bolt main 496ci build
Reply #78 - Mar 8th, 2019 at 7:32pm
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Derek B wrote on Mar 8th, 2019 at 2:37pm:

Thanks for the tips.  You are running a cd box on the readytorun,correct?  I was told I would need to run a cdi box with a readytorun.  But not with the probillet.   I have no problem spending money if needed, I have come this far.   But if it’s not needed I’d rather not buy it now.



[url][/https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-83603/overview/make/chevroleturl]

I am running this. No cdi box, the module is built into the distributor.
  
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Derek B
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Fitech, 4l80e, with stock computer
Reply #79 - Mar 18th, 2019 at 12:15am
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I have learned much with this build but the electronics portion has been particularly difficult.  I am thankful for the folks in this forum especially Tom, thank you.
   I am running the Meanstreet fitech along with the stock 92 computer to run the 4l80e, with an HEI coil in the cap type distributor.
If you are thinking about running this combination, here is a quick rundown on what you’ll need. 
The meanstreet is not the transmission controller type fitech, you will need a transmission controller. I am using the stock computer.  You will need these signals for the stock computer:  MAP sensor (use the original sensor) connect the vacuum line to fitech.
                 TPS signal, this signal is shared between fitech and ECM. you will need to get a breakout harness from CASPER I will post a picture at bottom,  solder the harness into the original wiring. 
https://www.instagram.com/p/BvIRrgNgf6p/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1n5xzt...

                DISTR HIGH REF signal is needed into the ecm,   tach signal into the ECM then the 4l80e.   This signal comes from the negative side of the coil.  This signal runs through a rpm signal conditioner (like a CoilX) module
                Coolant sensor. The stock one will do, the meanstreet comes with one you will need both. 
            You will need a throttle lever bushing for the 1/2 hole to use a stock type 1/4 throttle cable stud. I recommend using the all metal lever bushing, the rubber one deflects too much.

I have done all this but I have not completed my build yet.
  

Hot street 496 build 10.5:1 solid roller with AFR 265 Ovals Gen V block.
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mississippi454ss
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Re: 1992ss 4 bolt main 496ci build
Reply #80 - Mar 18th, 2019 at 3:22am
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I am planning a 4l80e swap for my truck.

What year transmission are you using?

What converter/flex plate?

What are you doing for speedo signal?
  
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Derek B
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Re: 1992ss 4 bolt main 496ci build
Reply #81 - Mar 18th, 2019 at 12:43pm
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mississippi454ss wrote on Mar 18th, 2019 at 3:22am:
I am planning a 4l80e swap for my truck.

What year transmission are you using?

What converter/flex plate?

What are you doing for speedo signal?

  I am using the stock 1992 transmission for now (I will eventually need to go to a beefier trans), with the original flex plate with the counter weight removed. The below link is pic of my flexplate with counter weight removed.  I also took the flexplate to my machinist and had him perfectly balance it.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BoZYLN5A4Xh/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=jtohnb...



Multiple sources told me the stock flex plate is sufficient
a 3000 stall PTC converter. Pic below
https://www.instagram.com/p/BpaLx2_B-sb/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=fn9bdk...
The stock speed sensor
  

Hot street 496 build 10.5:1 solid roller with AFR 265 Ovals Gen V block.
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Derek B
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thermostat size and sensor location solved
Reply #82 - Mar 25th, 2019 at 9:07pm
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I had been stumped for a couple days on the size of thermostat for my edlebrock 2904 single plane.   The thermostat opening is much bigger than the stock 92 intake thermostat location.   I scoured the internets and never really found an answer.  I then called edlebrock directly, they told me that the their intake thermostat openings are based off of the older BBC blocks and I should be shopping for a thermostat for a 74 big block car , like a corvette.   So that’s what I did and that worked no problems.    I doesn’t seem like a it should be a big problem, but if you’ve never done it you wouldn’t know.   I hope this helps some folks

Also,  I learned the hard way, when you are installing fiberglass header wrap, wear gloves, long sleeve and a mask.   Man I’m still itching..


Also, picture below of a ware neck spacer that provides an extra sensor spot. Vintage Aire makes this one.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bvch7Uyg_ss/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1nsuq4...
  

Hot street 496 build 10.5:1 solid roller with AFR 265 Ovals Gen V block.
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Derek B
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Engine in and running but there are a few issues
Reply #83 - Jul 1st, 2019 at 1:09am
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So the engine is in and running the fitech seems to be doing its thing and running it idles albeit a little rough.   My issues: for some reason my power steering bracket is pushed out slightly and walking the belt out about 1 rib. 
  I was able to move the truck under its own power but something is wrong with the transmission.  It has no power at all and all it will do is creep forward and back.   
Next,  there is an obvious problem with the vacuum supply to brake booster, the truck won’t stop when idling.

The transmission is particularly worrisome for obvious reasons,  trouble shooting a 4l80e isn’t really my strong suit.   
I will post here when I find solutions for all this

https://www.instagram.com/p/BzTV-oTAa8R/?igshid=1od9pltz66o8e
https://www.instagram.com/p/BzVnH00g1kG/?igshid=18rs58o5adpm
https://www.instagram.com/p/BzTMeBhACgl/?igshid=10yyljcte9k98


  

Hot street 496 build 10.5:1 solid roller with AFR 265 Ovals Gen V block.
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Derek B
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resolved. Belt issue and transmission
Reply #84 - Jul 1st, 2019 at 5:34pm
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It seems the power steering pumps between 92 and 95 are not directly interchangeable.  This was causing my belt alignment issues.   I ended up spacing the pump backwards with two stacked washers, this cured my belt issues.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BzYe_KaAAoW/?igshid=1mr5165z66ict

My transmission issue was fixed by adding 2quarts of trans fluid.   I forgot to calculate the amount within the transmission cooler (about 2 qts)
https://www.instagram.com/p/BzYfKylgAml/?igshid=4jn2c580nhx7

Thank you Tom for the guidance....
  

Hot street 496 build 10.5:1 solid roller with AFR 265 Ovals Gen V block.
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Derek B
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Fi tech and electrical interference
Reply #85 - Jul 14th, 2019 at 8:49pm
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I got everything back together,  loomed the wires.  Went to go start up the truck and it wouldn’t idle without pedal the speedometer was bouncing all over the place and the fuel gauge was pegged.      I removed all my loom work and tightened all the grounds on the top of the engine, tried again an it ran fine.   I loomed it again, this time separated out he large power supply wires and I loomed the TPS and fitech sensors separately.    It now seems to work fine again.   

It’s my opinion through this experience that the FItech is very sensitive to voltage interference.    I made it a point to use multiple quality grounds everywhere because of reading about those issues.    My advice is loom all of you large + supply wires away from any sensors for the fitech ....
  

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Derek B
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4l80e won’t shift
Reply #86 - Jul 16th, 2019 at 7:13pm
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I took the truck out for the first drive the other day and I’m not getting any gears it took me a while to realize it but it seems to be only giving me 2nd gear.   I’m am going to check all sensors (tps,map,Cts, rpm, ).  and make sure I’m getting 12v to the trans. I’ll try to report back when I figure it out.   For a bit of perspective, I’m using the fitech tps signal, coil white wire for rpm, stock coolant temp sens. And stock map sensor attached to ported vacuum on fitech...
This is the first time doing any of this. Maybe if I read enough articles and watch enough YouTube I’ll eventually figure it out.   
   
« Last Edit: Jul 16th, 2019 at 9:22pm by Derek B »  

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Derek B
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pressure solenoid not getting 12v
Reply #87 - Jul 19th, 2019 at 2:59am
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I’ve been chasing a problem with the pressure solenoid wire.   The pressure solenoid is not getting any power ,  and there is a break in the wire  close to the PCM ....the pcm is not providing power from its terminal either.

I checked all the solenoids for ohm resistance  and they came out good.  My only concern is the pressure solenoid doesn’t get power
  

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Derek B
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resolved 4l80e no power
Reply #88 - Jul 20th, 2019 at 1:17am
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My issue was in the pcm power input from the battery.   The power to the pcm comes from the orange wire on the fuel pump relay on the firewall.   I deleted this relay when I installed the FItech and the wire was abandoned.  After guidance from Tom and some electrical hunting, I reconnected the wire and bolted it to the power supply strip on firewall,  boom a working 4l80e.     Thanks Tom
  

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Derek B
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Next: no overdrive issues
Reply #89 - Jul 23rd, 2019 at 1:43pm
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Next problem for me to solve;   I’m having trouble with the 4l80 lockup and not staying in overdrive.   
I’ll start the truck and start down the road I’ll get it up to speed and the overdrive seems to shutter or jerk just a little bit, it’s not violent  but you can definitely tell something is up.    This only happens at cruise, constant throttle position.   Acceleration and deceleration is not a problem.  After about 2-3 miles overdrive completely goes away and it stops shuttering (for lack of a better word).  This process repeats itself the car sits for a bit.   
I went to a local transmission shop just to ask what they thought, he pretty much just shook his head in understanding and said I need to get a new transmission controller.  He told me it’s not worth me bringing it to him to trouble shoot a 1992 ECM when I can buy a brand new computer for about 500$.   I agreed, I’d like to get this working but I’m not paying good money for someone else to sort this out.  If I can’t sort this out on my own I’ll be looking for a trans computer.

Anyone like or had good experience with a auto transmission controller?   Tci, goshift?
« Last Edit: Jul 24th, 2019 at 11:49am by Derek B »  

Hot street 496 build 10.5:1 solid roller with AFR 265 Ovals Gen V block.
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